As always, thanks to my day and 5000 step sponsors. Thanks to those who have sent me a message these days to support me in my wounded journey.
Even though I swore that I was simply going to rest my feet yesterday. I couldn't help myself, I had to explore the town of Carrion de los Condes a bit. I also desperately needed toothpaste and tissues (the latter for a nose that would not stop running). Carrion is a beautiful town with a glorious river park.
After exploring, I returned to the hostel and proceeded to operate on my feet. I really needed to fix the blister under the ball of my right foot. The operations were a success - I think.
I then briefly rested before the evenings prayers and entertainment began. Carrion de los Condes is famous for its singing nuns. There are 4 young Augustinian sisters who run the parish hostel. Singing is their gift from God and their gift to the pilgrims. At 5.45 om, we prayed Vespers (evening prayer). It was almost completely sung. This did mean that we could not join in, but it was very prayerful to follow and listen to. After evening prayer, we moved to the garden of the hostel and the sisters led us in an hour of communal singing. They kept trying to pressure me, as the Australian, to sing something. I did everyone the great favour of refusing each request.
After the singalong, there was a gap of an hour or so. I was starving. It was really at the point where my fellow pilgrims started to look like they would taste good lightly roasted over an open fire. So, I bolted down the road and found a place that made pizza. Yay for not eating the pilgrim menu for a night.
Soon after dinner, it was time for Mass. The Mass was lovely - a real parish affair, with a number of young children sitting in the very front row. The pilgrim blessing at the end of Mass was delightful. The sisters amke a star for every pilgrim each day and as part of the blessing ritual, they give us each this star, to remind us that vene when the going seems dark that there is always a light. We were invited to come forward for a blessing and I went to one of the sisters who laid her hands upon me and prayed God's blessing over me and then another sister gave me a star. We all then moved to the statue of Our Lady of the Way, where I had lit a candle earlier in the day for those back home, and there we sang the Salve Regina. It was the most beautiful pilgrim blessing ritual of the Camino. A number of the young pilgrims were in tears over it all.
After the Mass, I joined a Canadian woman, whom I had met all the way back in Pamplona, while she ate dinner. I had a final refreching beverage to conclude the day.
I actually slept really well last night. I only woke when some mad pilgrims started packing their bags at 4.30am. Obviously, they did not believe the nuns when the told us that the front door would not be unlocked until 6am. About 5.15am, I arose and readied myself for the day. This involves a fair bit of foot preparation, as I pad my heel blisters and then elastoplast them for the journey.
Just before 6am, the doors were unlocked and off we went. The first 5kms or so were on bitumen. I would normally complain about walking on the road. But, with sensitive feet, in the cool of the morning, the flat of the road was very inviting. After these 5 kms, we hit a fairly even pilgrim path. This path would continue for another 12 kilometres until we finally arrived in a town. 17 kilometres of walking without a pause - horrible. I did say a few impolite words about the boring environs around me....
When I finally arrived in the first town and found a bar, I was over the moon. Juice, coffe and tortilla - perfect. The bar owner was justly proud of his double espresso - I ordered a second. Surprisingly, he asked me where I came from and then, after I told him Australia, he said that I spoke Spanish very well. I have perfected the ordering of breakfast!
It was 6 kilometres until the next town. About half way in, I felt nature calling - very loudly. But there was no nature around. It was still barren wasteland, for the most part. There were plenty of wild flowers growing on the side of the road, but not a tree to be seen. I was filled with extraordinary joy when I finally reached the next town, and the next bar!
Most pilgrims would only walk another 3 kilometres to a place called Terradillos de los Templarios. But, for whatever reason, I had planned another 3.5 kms to the next town of Moratinos. As I approached Terradillos, I assumed that there would be Mass there at around midday. I used an app and discovered that Mass would be at 12.30. Excellent, I thought, tonnes of time. When I arrived at 12.08pm, I discovered that Mass had already begun. I entered just as they were singing Alleluia. It was lovely to experience a real parish Mass. Even better that it was the Church of St Peter. I obviously said some special prayers for the St Peter's Parishioners there. Amazingly, I understood every word of the homily. I felt like I really participated in the Mass.
Having finished Mass, I walked on the extra few kilometres and was greeted by sunflowers following me along the way - well I think they were following me and not the sun :) It was wonderful to arrive at my hostel, a relatively new one run by Italians. They are promising pizza tonight - which I am sure will taste better than last night's pizza. For now, I am yet to clean up, but I am sitting in their garden enjoying a sandwich and a beer. Rest awaits.
Hast el luego!
