I had a most relaxing afternoon and evening in Villafranca. I sat in the beer garden of the hostel/hostel for a couple of hours with other pilgrims and chatted away quite merrily. Eventually, I went and had a siesta. I could have slept for hours, but I had to drag myself out of bed to go to dinner. I had dinner with a mature age Norweigian called Harry - he was great company - and we enjoyed a nightcap afterwards. This was my first whiskey since the plane flight. I won't be repeating it in a hurry as it cost almost as much as dinner. 8 euros for a whiskey and 12 euros for a three course meal including a bottle of wine - go figure.
While we were having our post-dinner beverage, A group of 4 young ones arrived. Amongst them was Robbie Williams from my first night in Roncesvalles. It's amazing how the waves of pilgrims cross backward and forward. These mad young ones were planning on walking into the evening and camping along the way - we warned them of wolves, but it didn't top them. This is probably because they knew that there are no wolves in these mountains.
I slept well but did not wake well. I think that I am suffering from two nights of no sleep. I woke feeling very week, almost lethargic. Even though my backpack must weigh less than when I began, considering bhow much stuff I have lost, it felt like it weighed 5 kilograms more.
I had been looking forward to a bit of hill walking. I wanted to stretch some different muscles. What was I thinking? I left the hotel, turned right and immediately there was a hill climb. I felt every step. The up-hills were very hard going. Thankfully, the start of this stretch was covered with shade. The shade did not last. About 4 kilometres into the 12 kilometre walk to the next town, the path widened considerably and no shade was to be found. It was a long, flat, boring stretch of walking - pine trees on either side and as far as the eye could see. Of course, I did not need to cross the world to see a pine forest!
It was only on the final entry into the next town, the lovely hamlet of St Juan de Ortega that the scenery changed. Again I was greeted by wild flowers on either side of the path and paddocks surrounding me. I stopped for brunch in St Juan and caught up, eventually, with Harry from the night before. After brunch, I headed on.
The next town was Ages. This was where I had originally planned to spend the night. What an amazingly pretty little town. They self-describe it as enchanting, and they are right. The church was open, so I could pay a visit. On top of the bells was another nest; inside, there were two storks, a mother and child - the baby stork was trying to fly. It was a captivating scene.
Being still early, I decided to walk 3 kms to the next town - Atapuerca. Around here is where they have discovered some of the oldest human remains. I am not sure yet whether I will have a chance to visit this archeological park. The local bar is set in parkland and I have been able to sit under the trees and eat lunch with passing pilgrims. It has been a delightful end to a day that did not begin well.
Hasta la vista!
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