Day 3 - the journey to Pamplona.

30,000 steps! Thanks to my day sponsors and to my 5000 step sponsors.

Obviously, there must be a few things to say about the rest of yesterday. So, I will begin there.

After lunch, I was able to book in to my hostel. It was a nice place and I had reserved a single bed rather than a bunk bed. I showered and washed my clothes by hand. I had to use a wash board for the first time. You will not that the letters f.u.n. do not appear in "wash board" - this is not a conincidence.

After washing, I went for a wander and bumped into Wiliam and Willie, the Irishmen from the days before. We agreed to meet up later and ended up having dinner together again and a refreshing beverage. Wandering around the very small town, I saw some pilgrims camped by the creekside relaxing. One was literally cooling his heels - what a great idea! I went a put my feet into the very cool river water - what a blessed relief.

Fortunately, Friday was one of the three days a week with a weekday Mass. So, I went to that at 6pm. I can't say that it was terribly inspirational - it was a bit strange in fact... but, I had a lot to be thankful for.

The day ended, as I said before with dinner and a cool drink.

I woke very early this morning and had to wait until about 6am before I could get up, so as not to disturb the others. After a very quick breakfast, I headed on my way.

Even though I had been telling all and sundry that today was a flat day, as soon as I left town there was quite a climb ahead of me. Numerous times during the day, I was climbing quite steep hills and descending very steep inclines. Having said that, there were many more significant times when I walked on the falt. Most of the first ten kms seemed to have farmland on the left and a river on the right. Mostly, this walk was in the shade.

At the ten km mark, I crossed the river and sat at a bar there and had a bite to eat and a double espresso. Refreshed, I started the walk again. Even though the first ten kms were relatively easy, the last seemed to take their time and their toll. It is amazing how my feet begin to tire around the 12 or 13 km mark - this was true back ion Ingham as well.

Even though I was starting to flag, I saw a detour to a 12th century church called San Esteban (St Stephen/Steven). I don't know what madness overtook me, but I began to climb, and to climb, and to climb. Honestly, it wasn't that bad, though I did need to stop a few times. What a pretty little church with the most magnificent rear altar. At that altar, I said a few prayers for the St Steven back home who gave me a little bit of money to spend foolishly - I prayed in thanksgiving for him and his family's intentions. There is also a large crucifix in the entry way around which pilgrims place prayer intentions on green sticky notes - I made a prayer for parishioners, family and friends.

It was 3.5kms to a town on the edge of Pamplona called Trinidad de Arre and then another 4.5 to Pamplona central. Easy I thought. As magnificent as the walk was, a very open walk on a track cut out of the hillside, It was very hard going. My feet were sore most of the way.

I was very glad to hit the bridge into Trinidad de Arre and to pay a quick visit to the 13th century miniature basilica there. It was also nice to walk through a different environment. I had expected an industrial   outskirts. Instead it was old buildings and tree-lined streets all the way in.

After a steep climb into the old centre, there awaited by lovely hostel and across the road a bar. I will explore the town soon.

Some things I have been meaning to say:

Thanks for the text messages and emails from those who have sent them - I am receiving them.

Thanks to George Day for the tip about walking backwards for twenty paces to stretch the anterior muscles. It works a treat.

Thanks for the candles lit and prayers offered.

Maxine, I am sure that I saw a picture of San Rafael tending to Tobit in the Cathedral at Bayonne before I began. I thought of you and I have kept San Rafael as one of my patrons on this journey.

In some ways, my feet are holding up better than I thought they would. I arrived in Europe with blisters and now seem to have none. But, my feet feel bruised from the stony paths so far. Good track shoes are excellent for their weight and for breathing (even the hostel manager today commented immediately as I was removing my shoes how perfect they are for the Camino). BUT, I can feel every stone... that's why people wear trekking shoes with thicker soles. 

My backpack is the wrong size. It is too large. For the first two days it sat on my waist, which started to cause problems with my lower back. I really considered dumping it yesterday and buying a new one - but it does have a variable system and I managed to make it very close to the right size. As a result, today was a much more compfortable journey.

I have been walking though cattle country and every second cow seems to have a bell around its neck. It makes for a pleasant walk hearing the soft ringing of the bells.

The journey has been wonderfully prayerful. I get to pray the rosary a couple of times on the journey. This actually helps with the walking as it keeps me going. Every now and again, I continue to offer up a quick Our Father, Hail Mary and Glory Be for various intentions. I get to offer various prayers ion churches along the way and I can celebrate Mass each day. It is a perfect retreat!

A very special someone gave me money for my first coffe - I have had two delightful coffees on him and been very grateful each time.