Day 5 - to Estella

32,000 steps! Thanks to my day sponsors and to the 5000 step sponsors.

To recap, since last I wrote....

I had wanted to visit the rather unique church of St Mary in Eunate. This would have involved a three kilometre detour. Unfortunately, I got a bit lost and wander around this small little town looking for a bite to eat and a cold drink before heading off, Having gotten a bit lost, I gave up on the idea of a detour and just headed to Puerte la Reina.

Fortunately, the hostel where I was staying offered a tour to this little church - twelfth century, octagonal in design, built by the Knights Templar and bearing many signs of their presence. What a facscinating little place. Further, it is still a church in use by the local community. Inside, only silence is allowed. It was very, very prayerful. I'm sorry that I was not able to stay a little longer so as to attend their Mass.

Upon returning to Puente la Reina, I went to Mass in the main church. It was beautiful - also very prayerful. Naturally, I didn't understand much of the homily. But, this just gave me some time for personal prayer.

The reason that I booked into the hostel which I chose is because it is rated as having the best food on the camino. I was not disappointed. It was a smorgasbord of salads and antipasti - I had a double serving of an artichoke and bacon dish. The main course was a large piece of chicken cooked with red and green peppers - melt in the mouth goodness.

Once again, I woke up early and I decided to head out without breakfast and hit the road.

The initial walk out of Puente la Reina was delightful... flat walk besides lovely fields. But, the mountains in the distance were a constant sign that today was a hill day. And what a hill it was. I had to stop several times as I made my way up. And, every time I thought that I was about to hit the top, I would turn a corner and their would be more hill in front of me. Even worse, I knew that after an upcoming downward stretch, I would have to head up again.

By the time I finally found a spot to eat, after about 8 kms or so, I was starving - two absolutely delicious ham and fresh tomato rolls (and the rolls were still warm from the oven) and i was ready to keep going. The only problem was a lack of real coffee - only machine espresso and, worse, with sugar.  It would be another 6 or 7 kilometres until I found a bar with an espresso machine. Aaah, a taste of heaven.

One of the more unfortunate aspects of the Camino is that most of the churches are closed. I have walked ever so slightly off the trail to visit the parish church only to discover the gates are locked. I have basically stopped making such detours. I did decide to risk going to the quaint little tenth century Hermitage of St Michael. Thank goodness that I did. It was worth it to simply look at it from outside from close up. When I went round the side and found an open door, I was delighted. A simple altar, a simple cross, with three nails underneath. A powerful place of prayer as pilgrims write down their intentions and leave them on the altar. An our father, hail mary and glory be was enough for me.

Unfortunately, today I got lost. I took a turn and could not find the yellow arrows. I ended up on the side of the highway and it was hot. I knew that I was heading in the correct direction - I knew that I would arrive at the right place, but I had lost the Way. The route I took was actually quicker than the more circuitous route of the Way and I passed some people who had been in front of me... but the joy is not in arriving sooner it is in the journey - and the side of the road is not a comfortable place to be.

Even though I was using a map application on my phone and knew that the Way lay not too far ahead of me, I didn't really know where I was going. I invoked a very long list of Saints - Our Lady, Joseph, Rafael, Mary MacKillop, James, Patrick, Peter, Therese, Anthony, Magdalen of Canossa, Josephine Bakhita... at that moment, a local bus appeared headed to Estella - was this a miracle???? I was tempted to think so. I crossed the street and there the pavement was the yellow shell indicating the Way - wow - but which way? I looked around perplexed and a local on his run waved me in teh right direction. Thanks be to God and to his Saints.

A small calf problem with my left leg as I tried to compensate for my dodgy right foot. I also had formed a blister yesterday - which I didn't even realise til I was discussing blisters with an Australian pilgrim. It didn't slow me down much.

I am in a parish hostel tonight - run by a volunteer who is a real sargeant major... but it is a bed for the night. It is cold out and i think it will rain. Nevertheless, it is time to explore the town and find a refreshing beverage.  Lunch today was an energy bar!