Today, my pedometer ran out of juice. There was a problem with the power points in the hostel yesterday... I thought it was recharged, but after 14000 steps, it said goodnight. So, let's guess that after 28 kms that I have walked 40000 steps.
After writing yesterday's blog post, I had a brief walk around the town and then I went and tried to rest for a while. Hostels are very noisy places in the afternoon, with pilgrims arriving at all hours. Even though my room was filled up immediately, the sound of footsteps and doors banging was very distracting.
Eventually, I went and joined the pilgrims gathered in the town square and filled the time with conversation. I ate a meal, went to mass, and then joined three others during their late supper. The afternoon and evening was freezing - probably around 11 degrees. I keep telling everyone that our winter us warmer than their summer.
The mass was lovely, though the priest spoke way to quickly and gave a very long homily for a weekday mass. The pilgrim blessing after mass was very nice and the priest explained to us, in great detail, in Spanish, all of the images and saints on the rear altar. I was glad to see a St Rafael.
Knowing that I had to walk 28 kms today, I woke up early. As soon as 6am arrived, I started packing my bag and by 6.15am, I was out the door. Today was not just a long day, it was both a hill day and the first day when we would have to walk many kms without a town in sight, 11 kms and 8 kms.
The first 6 kms, until I reached the first town, were lovely. It was relatively flat, the path was wide, the temperature was pleasant and the view magnificent. I was glad to see the first town Sansol on the hillside as I expected this to be my breakfast stop. As it turns out, the bar fellow was a bit rude, do I drank a quick first espresso and set off.
The next town, Torres del Rio, was only 1km away, if that. Down a gulley and up again and I was there. Thank goodness - I had a filling bacon and egg breadroll, a coffee and a juice.
I was now ready for the 11 km stretch with a hill in the middle. Strangely, I barely felt the hills, going up. I found the climbing quite easy. But the going down was hell.
I was very glad to see the next town Viana in the distance. It was a pretty ugly entry into the town. But, it held some treasures within. The main church was magnificent. There were about 12 elaborate side altars. In one of them was the most beautiful image of St Joseph and child Jesus that I have ever seen. I was also glad to be able to light a real candle in front of St James - they like those horrible electric candles as much here as at home. Walking down the street a bit, I saw the ruins of a church, San Pedro's. I walked inside and was stunned at the natural beauty of the space, even though only the walls and the vault remained.
Leaving Viana, I felt a slight twinge in my left quadricep. As the seven kms to Logrono progressed, the pain in that area got worse. The last 4 kms were hell - I was trying not to hobble, but couldn't help it; pain was starting to appear elsewhere, my hips and right calf; the view was ugly; and we were walking on bitumen. I really felt like the journey would never end.
Even though I had woken up this morning with regrets about a planned rest day, I am now so grateful. Instead of sitting in a bar having a beer, I am lying in bed, in the privacy of my own room, after a glorious private shower, having time for rest. I may or may not explore this city later today. For now, it is time to heal.
Yes, it's time to heal. I pray you heal quickly.
ReplyDeleteGod be with you.
It was only after talking to Chella that I have come to realise the difficulty of walking down-hill and the pain that accompanies it, especially in the knees. I must quickly say, the phone call was initially a business call - can't have you think otherwise! You have prompted me to think that as much as we would love to have clear signs (arrows and/or shells) pointing and guiding us in the right direction through the day, it does not necessarily mean it will be hassle or pain free. Many blessings for your next day's journey and it is re-assuring to see St. Rafa. making himself known along the Camino.
DeleteWe really appreciate your daily reports Fr.Damien.I am so enjoying my vicarious experience of the Camino.When I express my wish to do this pilgrimage one day; the family fall about laughing.My cousin suggested Steve might take me in a pushchair! I think not.Hope your rest has achieved the desired results and you can be on your way again in relative comfort.May the road rise up to meetyou clouds to walk on.Steve & Judy V
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