Thursday, 2 July 2015

Day 22 - rest day in Leon

Lunch went on for considerably longer than I had planned yesterday as, the moment I finished writing my blog post, two American lasses whom I had bumped into a few times these past few days, sat next to me and we chatted for quite a while. So, after that, I spent some time simply wandering the streets and then paid a first visit to San Isidore's.

Unlike the Gothic Cathedral, San Isidore's is built in Roman style. I appreciate the greater simplicity. What surprised me, upon entering, is that the sacrament seemed to be permanently exposed. I spent some time in prayer and the wandered around the church. I eventually found a large inscription to the side which described Pius XII granting this church the right and honour of perpetual exposition - something I have never encountered before.

After this, I wandered back to my hotel and tried, quite insuccessfully to rest. I had my eye on the clock as the Cathedral Mass was at 6.00pm (not the 7.30 or 8.00pm to which I have become accustomed). After Mass, I spent an hour or more simply wandering around, enjoying plazas and buildings. I stumbled across a tenth century church with an exposition about the lfe of nuns (in honour of this year of consecrated life).  It was a wonderful exposition and I plan on going back for another peak later today.

Wandering around, I bumped into a few pilgrims whom I know and had a meal with them. It was a very pleasant end to the day.

Unfortunately, I did not benefit from the good sleep that I needed. My sleep was incredibly restless. Nevertheless, I remained in bed for as long as possible. Not much point rising early in a country where nothing opens before 10am. I had a most delightful breakfast in a lovely pastry place looking at the Cathedral - I paid for the honour!

After saying my morning prayers at San Isidore's, I decided to visit their museum. Unfortunately, I could take no photos. They offered a guided tour, of which I understood about half - which was enough. There was an assortment of very interesting pieces - relic cases and vestments, etc. The pride of place is given to a chalice, which some of you may remember was claimed to be the Holy Grail just a couple of years ago. I didn't see angels or hear heavenly voices when I stood before it - so, I have no opinion on its origens.  BUt, it was lovely and fascinating and parts of it are at least from the 5th century. The oldest part of the complex is a burial place for the kings of Leon. This Pantheon has the most glorious frescoes on the ceiling, all from the 11th century. They are incredibly well preserved and have only ever been cleaned.

Having enjoyed this museum so much, I decided to visit the Cathedral museum. This museum is HUGE, filled with statues and paintings and vessels and vestments and tabernacles and crosses. There is really only so much art or history that I can take in at a time. I was also a tiny bit annoyed that there was nowhere to sit and enjoy some of the pieces - especially the painting of St Damian which had been at the heart of the Cathedral in the 18th/19th century.

Not really sure what to do next. I've had enough of churches and museums for now.  We'll see what the day brings.

Adios!


No comments:

Post a Comment