Day 25 - to Foncebadon

As always thanks for my day and 5000 step sponsors, for those who have sent me a message of support and the many who are following along each day.


Given how long and hard yesterday was, the rest of the day was a bit of a write off. I didn't leave the piazza where we ate lunch until about 4.30pm. I then took the opportunity to briefly visit the area of the Cathedral. Next door, there is a Bishop's House designed and built by Gaudi (photos are on this iPad, I'll try to get them up later). The house was never finished because when the sommissioning bishop died, the next one wanted nothing to do with this extravagant project. Since the mid-1960s, I think, it has been a museum. So, apart from being able to admire the wonderful and grandiose architecture, there were also many fine pieces of art from the 12th through to the 17th century.  After visiting the Gaudi House, I went to the Cathedral. There was a wedding going on so I could only visit a small portion of the building. But, that's ok, because it was almost dinner time.


I was very glad when dinner was over and I was wrapped up in my bed. I desperately needed sleep. Thankfully, I slept well. The only problem was the amazingly squeeky floor boards. Going to the bathroom in the middle of a night would have woken the dead. Everyone certainly woke early this morning - once one person began moving around the whole building echoes with the creaks and sqeeks.


I was on the road earlier than I wanted and need to be. About every 4 or 5 kilometres, there was a town. The first 5 kilometres was flat, then we faced a rise for the next five, then it was flat again (a plateau) for the next 5 then it basically went up and up and up throughout the day. I did not stop at the first town as it was too early. I was glad, after walking ten kms, and climbing a hill, to arrive at the second town. What a lovely little town - every building built of stone. This would be the case in each succeeding town. I enjoyed the breakfast break and the passing of a succession of pilgrims.


Much like the day we left Leon, three days ago, today saw a huge number of new people on the trail. Astorga is a very popular starting point for Spaniards - as a result, there were lots and lots of shiny shoes for the first ten kilometres or so. By the end of the day, the shine has vanished.


After breakfast, I headed off, obviously. It was a beautiful walk with wonderful views. And, the temperature was not so bad. I really didn't need a break but I really needed to stop at a place in the middle of nowhere called the Cowboy Bar. I enjoyed my soft drink and lemon calippo. Strangely, for a place that is quite popular, because it is so odd, it had the only dirty toilets I have encountered on the entire Camino. By dirty, I simply mean not sparkling clean.


In no time at all I was in Rabanal, the small town where most walkers have ended today. I decided to make an extended stop there because they have Mass on Sundays at 12.30pm. I arrived at around 11.30. This gave me more than sufficient time to have a sandwich and thensay some prayers before church.


Having entered the Church at around 5 minutes past midday, there was only one other person there. So, I took up a seat right near the front. I think this was a mistake. Gradually, the church began to fill. At about 12.15, a woman sat next to me, but with a good body's distance inbetween. Soon, another lady arrived and the first came closer to me. I became very aware of my smelly feet and my 21 kilometres of walking odour. In some ways, the next hour was excruciating. I wanted to either turn to teh woman and profusely apologise for my well-worn smell or get up and go stand down the back (as I did last Sunday). Nevertheless, I was too embarrassed to move (even though one of the pilgrims I know did move).


The Mass was divine. We celebrated Mass in an old Romanesque parish church that is now looked after by Benedictines. They chanted many of the parts in Gregorian Chant in Lant (obviously). Even though I could not oin in everything, as the chant was too hard, it was heavenly in that space. The homily was excellent - though he repeated the highlights in English. I didn't need that but I am sure it was appreciated by many. The priest was actually German and spoke English very well. As a result, I took the opportunity to ask for confession after Mass. I hit the road much lighter :)


I was quite suprised by the first couple of kilometres out of Rabanal. The next 5 kms were supposed to be all up hill - and massively up hill. But, I walked along the flats enjoying the walk. Then, I came across a  magnificent fern garden, obviously planted by locals. This was a delight to walk through. BUT, I am now convinced that they planted this garden to hide the sheer rock face that I would next have to climb (slight exaggeration). From now, it was uphill.


The last kilometre or so was especially hard. I was so glad to finally arrive at Foncebadon (which is just short of the highest point on the entire walk and of the Iron Cross where pilgrims leave a stone). I am staying in the parish hostel which is attached to the old church. In fact, because I arrived later, I am staying on a mattress on the floor in what was the old church. There's a bit of a chapel at the end but I don't know if they have the requisites for Mass, which is why I went in Rabanal.


So, a good day...


A mañana 

Damian