After lunch yesterday, I went and collapsed in a heap on my bunk. I actually managed to sleep fairly soundly, which is indicative of how much my body needed rest.
Late in the afternoon, I decided to go exploring. My feet were still killing me, but I wanted to at least locate the evening Mass and maybe have a cold drink.
As I was walking around, I saw a sign for the swimming part of theriver. Unfortunately, I didn't have the correct gear with me, but I walked the kilometre or so to see what it was like. It was absolutely packed with people - understandably as it was stinking hot. I took the opportunity to soak my feet for about 20 minutes. What a blessed relief! That 20 minutes in the cold of the river water made all the difference. I was able to walk with only the slightest pilgrim hobble.
I was now able to visit most of the sights of the town, which included some beautiful churches and the ruins of a palace/castle. Mass at 7.30 was a pleasant enough affair. There were quite a few locals there. At the end of Mass, the pilgrims were invited up for a blessing. I thought that I was the only one there and did not want to go forward. The man sitting next to me almost shoved me out of the pew. Another pilgrim joined me - he was from Spain. The priest celebrating the Mass was fairly astounded that I had come from Australia - "way down there". Once again, I assured him that I had not walked the whole way.
After Mass, I joined the Danish woman I had met in Leon and her new walking partner, a lady from Russia. We had a very pleasant evening. I loved the hamburger.
One of the difficult things about the walk is how some fellow travellers wake up very early and make a huge amount of noise. I had one woman this morning, at around 5.15am, rustling every plastic bag she owned for about 20 minutes. This was right behind my head. Eventually, I whispered rather loudly, "Seriously!" and she seemed to quiten down. What amazes me is that these people don't prepare the night before. I have everything back in my bag except for my toiletries and my first aid kit. What ultimately annoyed me even more is that when I left at 6.30am, she was still in the hostel and had not even had breakfast!
Putting aside the regular early morning annoyance (and my having to re-enter the hostel and climb 4 stories because I had forgotten my hat), today was amongst the best of all days for walking. The first twenty kilometres were absolutely magnificent. Even though a good portion was spent beside an old highway (not much used now), I was glad to be walking on flat ground with few rocks. More so, for most of this we were walking along the base of a valley. It was spectacular - greenery all around. For the first 12 kilometres, there were basically no stops. Afterward, every 1.5 to 2.5 kms there was a pretty little village.
Once again, the churches along the way were open. These were all like little chapels, capable of containing no more than 50 people. I was delighted to be able to go inside, say a prayer and even light a real candle. In the second of these churches a local woman asked me if I liked the church, I said "sure. it's beautiful." She then asked me if I was spanish - obviously my bluff and bluster is becoming even more assured :)
As always, the last 4 kilometres were very difficult. These last 4 kms were all uphill - up a very, very steep hill. Most people will continue on for anotehr 4 kilometres to the highest town in this area Ocebreiro. I am glad that I decided to stop at the half way point. It was incredibly hard going - I was dragging myself up the hill by my walking sticks.
I am speniding the evening in the parish hostel here - which has a lovely church next door. I am looking forward to an afternoon of pure rest.
Hasta la vista!
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