Day 36 - to Santiago de Compostela

And, again, with thanks to my day and 5000 step sponsors. More prayers to St Anthony, please.

Yesterday evening, Linda decided to remain in her hotel, which was 3.5kms further down the road. As a result, I decided that I would go to the Italian Mass, rather than the Spanish one. There were only about 10 of us there... not that there have been great hordes at any of the pilgrim Masses. The homily was very, very long - about 20 minutes, which is a strecth for a weekday Mass. The first third, the priest explained how his Italian order, dedicated to care of the disabled, ended up in Spain; the second third was a reflection on teh Gospel; the final third was a reflection on the Camino. His content was 95% excellent, sadly his tone about those others who were walking the way was very negative. I would have liked something a bit more uplifting - nevertheless, I was very challenged. He talked about the traditional five rules for doing the Camino - solitary; in silence; fasting; reflecting on the Passion; foregoing vices.  I reckon that I have done OK, except for the Fasting bit!  These last few days have been an especial challenge with lage groups walking together and making incredible noise...

After Mass, I spent another 15 or 20 minutes in the church saying some private prayers. As it turns out, a particular Italian woman was waiting for me - I actually don't really remember her - but she remembered me from three or so weeks before. Anyway, we had a lovely chat walking down the hill and she gave me a huge hug goodbye. Some time later, I headed out for dinner, I found a spot, almost at the end of the road with a view over the forests. When I entered, the same Italian lady was there. We had a wonderful eveing of shared memories, shared challenges and talking about this that and any other thing. It was most delightful.

Linda and I had decided to meet along the way. We both set off at around 5.45 am and eventually met at about 6.45am in a cafe. It was pitch black when I left my hostel - and NO I did not leave anything behind. The first few hundred metres were very easy going - then, I hit the woods. That was dark! My night vision is pretty good and I could hear the tap-tap-tap of my sticks upon the bitumen. At one stage, there was no more tapping - I realised that I had taken a wrong turn - just a short one. I backtracked onto the correct path. I was very glad when the light started to appear.

For the first time in 36 days, the weather was not brilliant. The whole morning was spent in the lightest of rains. I didn't need a rain jacket, but I had to take off my glasses. The benefit of the overcast and dreary weather was the very low temperature which made walking very easy.

Eventually, Linda and I met up at Mt Gozo - the Mount of Joy. Here, ancient pilgrims would begin to smile as they saw the spires of the Cathedral in the distance. Today, one cannot see the Cathedral and the monument brings anything but a smile to the face. From here, we decided to meet at the Cathedral.

I walked and walked and walked those last 5 kilometres. I cannot describe the moment when I first saw the spires of the Cathedral. Strangely, the photo that I thought I took did not take. Half an hour before, Linda asked me how I was feeling about the end of my Camino. I said that I was feeling nothing; but, in that moment when I saw the Cathedral I was ever so slightly overcome. 

Eventually, I arrived at the Cathedral. I then searched for our hotel so that I could leave my backpack. Tired and very smelly, I entered the Cathedral. Before the midday Mass, over an hour away, there were a few things I wanted to do. I wanted to embrace the statue of the Apostle James, I wanted to spend time in prayer before his tomb, and I wanted to pray another rosary for you and in thanksgiving. 

Hugging the statue of the Apostle did not do much for me at all - not that I expected that it would. Praying before his tomb was another story. I was very moved when I dropped to my knees before St James' sarcophagus and offered up both prayers of thanksgiving and prayers for those who had sponsored me on this journey.  After this, I moved to the very front section of the Cathedral, reserved for pilgrims. Immediately, I encountered a dutchman with whom I had journeyed most of this last month. Not long after, Linda came and I barred her seat while she visited the Apostole. One of the most delightful moments was when an Italian mother and daughter arrived with whom I have journeyed at least half of the way. The embrace was very encouraging and congratulatory. 

About 10 minutes before Mass, a wonderful nun appeared who led us in prayer and song. She was amazing in encouraging us to sing and participate. 2 minutes before Mass, they read out the countries of origin of all those who had arrived in the past day - no one from Australia..... Mass itself was magnificent - the singing, the prayers, the spirit, the crowd. It was glorious - a true taste of heaven. 

After Mass, we were able to book into our hotel, which is an ex-seminary. It was so good to wash away the grime of the past few hours. After this, we headed out for lunch. We found a phenomenal spot with real paella (something I have avoided these past weeks because it is always frozen) and just enjoyed ourselves. So many of those who passed us by had been on the road with us. It was hallo, ciao, salve, buenos dias to almost every group that passed. The paella was exceptional, the house wine was "to die for", but the pilgrim spirit was indescribable.

Wehad heard that it would take up to five hours to receive the Compostela (the certificate for the pilgrimage) and had been preparing to do it tomorrow. But, huge groups kept walking past us, Compostela in hand, whom we had seen walking down-hill. So, after lunch, we decided to go for the certificate. The waiting in line was an absolute delight; you will never hear me say that again!!!  We talked to fellow pilgrims, we talked about the journey, and it all passed in no time at all. 

Having received the certificate, we did a little bit of tourist shopping, though we have not yet found the Apron that Linda desires. After this, Linda went to rest while I went to the local Jesuit church for a 1/2 hour of Taize prayer. I was a bit late, but the prayer was very meditative and centering. 

A day off awaits. I am looking forward to easing my soles and enjoying the city.

Adios!