Day 37 - rest day at Santiago

After writing up my very late blog post yesterday, I simply wandered the town for a while. It is a really lovely old city - filled with people, pilgrims and thousands of tourists. While wandering, I kept bumping into people I knew. I eventually came across the Italian Mother and Daughter whom I had constantly bumped into and pent time with over the past twenty days. I sat with them, and a French man who had also walked one of the French routes (another 30 days or more). We talked mostly in French, which is difficult but entertaining. At the other end of the table was a Korean group - they are huge here. One of them I eventually noticed was Patrick whom I had shared a room with about ten days ago. We had a lovely time. While sharing a refreshing beverage, Trudy the Italian lady from a day before and a German fellow I knew also came over to greet me. It is so friendly at the end of the journey.

I eventually retrieved Linda and we wandered a bit and the went to a restaurant for dinner. It was really delightful, also, and we had a wonderful waiter who was trying to perfect his English.

It was nice to sleep in a hotel again and to not share a room with 50 people. I slept very, very well. 

We got up for a late breakfast at around 8am. After breakfast, we went and waited for the Cathedral office to open at 9am so as to get the guided audio tour of teh Cathedral. The tour was fantastic, we saw so many bits and pieces that we either had or would have overlooked. The Cathedral, and its many chapels, is truly magnificent. After that tour, Linda decided to rest for a while. I was going to visit some other sights in the town but I decided instead to remain longer in the Cathedral. So, I said my prayers, I spent time at the tomb of the apostle James again, both giving thanks and placing before his intercession the intentions of those who have journeyed with me, and I slowly visited each nook and cranny of the Cathedral again. While doing this, I continued to bump into fellow pilgrims - discovering that the Italian mother and daughter would also be doing the walk to FInisterre starting tomorrow. The mum decided that at breakfast.

I decided that I would like to concelebrate the Mass at the Cathedral, so I talked to the sacristan. He said, Where are you from?" I said "Australia" and he said "Darwin?" and laughed. I have no idea what his connection with Darwin could possibly be! At about 11.15, I met Linda, who took my stuff to the pews, and at about 11.30 I went to the sacristy. There were about 8 priests there and the first one I met was from Australia! A Melobourne priest who walked the whole way last year and had brought a group of 16 young men to walk for 16 days on the Way. Being Australian obviously impressed the Sacristan and I was asked to say part of the Eucharistic prayer.

The Presider was the Military Bishop. A large group of pilgrims from the Royal Guard had just walked the English Camino and were there with their families. During the Mass, one of them gave a special talk and presented a flag of their regiment to the bishop. The Bishop's homily was very very passionate, and quite human. The partds I could understand, and which I chose to follow, were very inspiring. At one part he talked about our backpacks and the only one which really matters is the backpack of our hearts which we unload of sin and burdens as we walk the way. It was quite touching. He also made a special address to those present who do not believe and invited them to welcome the reconcling love on offer to them in Santiago.

The Cathedral at santiago is famous for its 5 foot high thurible/incenser. This is normally only lit on major feast days, about 5 times a year. But, due to its popularity, they light it each Friday evening in Summer. I had planned to return tonight to see the spectacle. As it turns out, they also light it when a pilgrim group pays the 500 Euro to have it swing at their Mass. The Royal Guard did this. So, at the end of Mass, the thurible was put into action. It is hard to describe how spectacular this is. The priest behind me, a Spaniard, encouraged me to take photos, which I did (3 in all). When the Canon of the Cathedral saw this, I was very roundly chastised. Oh well!  Thankfully, Linda videoed it all.

I am really glad that I concelebrated the Mass. It was a special privilege simply to be there. On top, to be able to pray part of the Eucharistic Prayer and to distribute Holy COmmunion was very special. The obvious devotion in those receiving communion was touching.

After Mass, I retrieved Linda who was very overcome by the Mass. We headed off for a meal. Leaving the Cathedral, I bumped into an Irish family whom I have seen most of the last week. They said, "We didn't know that you were a priest. That was a truly delightful surpirse!" I know that a couple of other pilgrims in the Cathedral were also a bit surprised by my appearance on the altar. It is not as if I hide the fact that I am a priest.. it's just that no one on the Camino asks, "What do you do?" This is a refreshing change from regular life where jobs define us.

On the way to lunch, we bumped into 4 Americans, two of the young ones and the school principal and her daughter from the Mass at Foncebadon. We shared a really enjoyable lunch with them.

After lunch, we found the local washing machine joint and, while Linda rests, I have deposited our washing there while writing this. I now have to return to place everything in a dryer. 

Hasta el luego!